• Full kit replaces the OEM brake booster and master cylinder.
• Weighs in at 1.38 lbs. Easily eliminates 20+ lbs.
• Includes properly designed black anodized aluminum firewall plate, stainless steel mounting hardware, black Wilwood 7/8ths Master Cylinder, -3AN 90º output fitting, and rod end pedal adapter with attachment nut
• Aftermarket brake pads required, Hawk HPS equivalent or better (explained below)
How will this effect the way my brakes feel? Why do you use a 7/8" or 3/4 master cylinder instead of a 1+ inch?
The common hearsay of eliminating the booster is that the pedal is too stiff for reasonable braking control. This is due to improper design and setup 100% of the time. The key to great pedal feel and more controlled braking is a properly sized master cylinder in relation to the pedal ratio used, adjustable Bias Valve to adjust rear brake bias, and aftermarket pads for the increased clamping force this setup creates. (Pedal ratio is simply referring the length from the pedal swing mount to where it attaches to the master cylinder). Rest assured, Chase Bays has you covered. You can get everything you need to properly set up your vehicle in one place. This product even works great larger sized front and rear calipers, they work perfectly fine with this setup. We have used them on 6 piston Front 4 Piston Rear Calipers with GREAT results.
Bigger is not always better with braking components. Increasing the diameter of the master cylinder bore will reduce line pressure, which also reduces clamping force. This is why aftermarket pads are required; the OEM pad compounds do not react quickly enough for the rapid clamping force. If a 1” bore master cylinder were used with the OEM pedal and no brake booster, pushing the pedal would be too stiff to allow the car to brake properly. Braking is more raw without the brake booster. Meaning there is less room for error on a poorly designed setup. If designed properly, the Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator yields a very pleasant brake pedal feel not far off from what you’re used to. All while still allowing the braking system to function normally and adding the feature of consistent braking.
The pedal ratio needs to be matched to the master cylinder output volume. Its what directly effects how your pedal feels and how your braking functions. We ask the chassis this is being installed in to create a perfect match master cylinder size for the OEM pedal ratio. If we haven't measured the ratio on the chassis you type in, we may ask for some measurements.
Bigger master cylinder = Harder pedal feel/more difficult to push and shorter travel.
Smaller master cylinder = More soft pedal feel/easier to push and longer travel.
How does the number of master cylinder outlets factor with braking power?
Brake pressure output is determined by the master cylinder bore size. Vehicles with up to 4 outputs on the master cylinder have a pressure output that is controlled internally. The increased number of outputs does not translate to more braking power.
Will this product be able to stop my car when I'm going 140mph or heading into a turn at 120mph?
Absolutely, we have many cars running this setup stopping under even more extreme conditions. Functionally the car should experience the same braking times and distances. If setup with our Brake Line Relocation Install Kits and/or as we explained in question 1, they should perform exactly the same. Not only have we tested the kit ourselves for over 5 years, but we have also sold them to over 1000 customers who have continued to leave outstanding reviews.
Is this item universal?
This kit fits Honda, Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, Mitsubishi and Toyota AE86. It fits 75% of the cars on the road; the 4-bolt pattern is extremely common.